Your raw denim jeans, your Oxford cloth shirt, the satin linings on your jacket pockets—all of these fabrics are the result of the intricate process known as weaving. In simple terms, woven fabrics are those which have been produced by interlacing two or more yarns in a sequence of right angles to create one piece of cloth. There are many different weave patterns out there, all of which create different fabrics.
Plain weave is the most fundamental type of textile weave which forms a strong, durable, and versatile cloth. This results in a checkerboard style appearance which you can see if you closely examine a plain-weave textile, such as cotton poplin.
Twill is among the most widely used weaves within textile production. Easily identified by its pattern of diagonal lines, twill weave is used to create strong fabrics such as tweed, gabardine, and of course, denim. As you can see from the above diagram, twill weave is formed by passing the weft yarn under and over multiple warp yarns, in an alternating sequence which creates a diagonal ribbed pattern on fabrics surface.
Satin weave creates a super smooth fabric that has a soft hand and drapes well. The floating yarn is then passed under one of the opposite yarn before repeating the process again.
Get DIY goodness in your inbox and be the first to know when a post goes live! Sign up by clicking here! Crochet Thread I used white but you can use whatever color you like! Yarn again, the colors are up to you Roving if you choose to make the pile weave pattern Shed Stick wooden dowel would do fine Ruler or 1-inch thick cardboard the same size as the loom Needle for the yarn Plastic Fork Long Stick or thin, long paint brush Scissors Branch or wooden dowel for hanging. Additional Tools You'll need: Weaving Loom.
I'm going to be breaking this project down into 3 techniques. There are SO many more techniques you can do but I feel if you get these techniques down, you'll be able to create so many different types of wall hangings!
I tied thread to the top left nail of the loom and looped the thread across two nails remember I said I like the look of the loose weave? I did this to achieve that look!
This is done to make sure the thread is straight and not on a weird angle. Tie off the end and grab your stick.. I actually used a dowel here and it broke off on an angle which turned out to be perfect.. I took that shed stick and went over, and under each thread like you see here.
I went ahead and prepped my yarn.. I did this about a hundred times and bam you have long strands for the fringe later on. I took the end of the yarn and put it through the thread toward the bottom of the loom. I went back to the top and began the weaving process. Move onto the next row by going over and under on the opposite strands of the row underneath. This is where the shed stick comes into play. It pretty much divides the thread for you so you can just go right through.
Keep weaving until you have about 12 rows. Your first block is finished! Repeat the full pattern sequence until the sample is woven. Start by tying your weft to the first warp thread on the left hand side, then go under the second thread to anchor your weft and start your weaving sequence. As mentioned, I start at the warp thread number 3, going over 2 threads, under 2 threads, over 2 threads, and I finish before the last two warp ends - these are again woven in plain weave.
Because my sequence is written down counting from left to right, this is how I am counting the warp ends, too.
I use an extra stick to help me count and work as a heddle. I skip the first two warp threads and start counting from the thread number 3 again, going under 1 thread, over 2 threads, under 2 threads etc. I skip the last 2 threads again and open the shed opening in the warp by turning the stick. Now, just like before, I weave tabby plain weave on the last 2 threads, pass the weft through the shed and weave tabby on the first two threads, to anchor the weft. The first pass is complete!
The full block is 4 passes of white yarn. For the third pass I skip the side threads and start counting from the thread number 3 again, going under 2 threads, over 2 threads, under 2 threads etc. For the final pass I use a shuttle stick as a heddle, and counting from left to right I go over 1 thread, under 2 threads, over 2 threads, under 2 threads etc. The houndstooth pattern is made by alternating between two yarn colors.
Both warp and weft are woven in a 4-thread block. After finishing the first block of white weft, use the second color and simply repeat steps You will see the pattern slowly emerging. After 4 passes of black yarn change the color back to white and repeat the full sequence: steps in white, steps in black, etc.
You can see a very distinctive pattern building up by now. You can use this technique to make patterned wall hangings on your frame loom, either a pattern itself or integrate the pattern into a broader design. You can also make small patches or patterned coasters, or any other small projects really, I listed my top 10 ideas in a blog post. But sampling patterns on a frame loom can be also a good idea for floor loom weavers.
You can quickly test how the yarns work together, without the long set-up of your floor loom. I pinned some pattern examples to this Pinterest board. Some of them are far too complicated for a frame loom but there are some simple ones, too! Twill pattern is a very simple yet beautiful pattern consisting of visual diagonal lines formed in the weaving.
The sequence developed from the twill pattern draft from left to right goes as follows:. The houndstooth pattern is basically a twill pattern with two alternating colors. This pattern is also called chevron pattern - a very elegant yet simple one. The sequence starts just like straight twill and reverses after first 4 steps. This is the sequence left to right :. Repeat STEP 3 6.
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